July marks the first month I start doing chapters out of order. I did this, because it makes July ice cream month. Mmmm, ice cream.
I’ve made ice cream before. You may recall that turned some leftover calvados custard into ice cream way back during tart month. But I haven’t made a lot of ice cream, and I definitely wouldn’t consider myself an expert on the craft, so this is a great month. Also, the hot. Ice cream is good for dealing with the kill-me-now-why-is-it-so-hot-don’t-I-live-in-Wisconsin?-seriously-WTF. Come to think of it, maybe I should be eating more.
Anywho, after intense consultation with the cookbook and my actual bandwidth (this particular ice cream project was overlapping with some of the eclair prep, because I’m timely that way) I settled on the mango ice cream. I haven’t worked with mangos much, but it was fairly simple recipe, so there’d be learning but little opportunity for disaster.
I’d never worked with a ripe mango before. May I suggest that you always, always work only with ripe mangos? Mega-tasty, even if they were much more prone to squish and cling to the stone in the center like a fiend. So there was peeling and de-stoning and pureeing. And then there was fun with mixers and double boilers.
Lots of ice cream recipes involve eggs, because they add richness and body and some solid-ish fats. But, that means that you need to get those eggs cooked because killer ice cream is only fun under very specific circumstances. So you mix together your cream and milk and sugar. Then you add your eggs and break out a double-boiler type setup.
From there, be ready to whisk. A lot. You want to make sure the heat stays evenly distributed through the mixture, but that it doesn’t get hot enough to boil while still getting hot enough to cook the eggs. Easy, right? Actually, it is pretty easy. You can tell as the mixture thickens, it’s mostly cream and you’re whipping it – and there’s a really handy guideline for when it’s done.
That’s what it looks like when it’s thick enough. You want it to coat the spoon thoroughly enough that you can’t see the grain of the wood through the cream anymore.
At that point, you’ve got the base for just about every egg-including ice cream ever. Now it’s time to add your flavoring. In this case, two pureed mangoes.
Let it cool off in the fridge over night, put it in your ice cream maker and voila, mango ice cream.
This was really well received, but it was also 80° inside when I served it, so the audience was just a touch biased toward frozen things. I think it could have been a bit more mango-y, or possibly a bit more lime-juice-y and gone from cromulent to fab. In the Professional Pastry Chef‘s defense, it was original written in the 40’s the subsequent editions have very clearly not changed a thing. I suspect having mango at all was edgy for the American pallet at the time.